Amidon Conservation Area

Continuing with our monthly series, "Adventures With Uncle Bob-Guide to Self-Adventures," we feature Cedar Glade Trail in Amidon Conservation Area. This area was featured in the Shawnee newsletter in late 2004; however, it has disappeared on the website and newsletter archives. Here it is again.

Directions: Cross the bridge at Chester, IL, and take Mo 51 thru Perryville, Missouri. Continue on 51 south for a few miles to County J (look for the fire tower). Drive approx 10 miles on J, look for the brown Amidon sign, and drive 0.9 mile on Rt 208 to the parking area. Cedar Glade trail is one mile in length. The Castor River, over time, has cut into the pink granite rock to create gorge-like chutes between the narrow shut-ins. The trail is at times both at river level with roaring cascades, as well as above it, becoming a rim trail on stone glade. At a point where the trail makes a right turn to leave the canyon, take a side trail for an overview of a gray granite glade which looks like a jigsaw puzzle put together. There must be 50 acres of this glade.

While this may seem like a short trail to be worth the drive, why not combine this with two trails at Perryville: Perry County Community Lake loop and Ball Mill Natural Area. Descriptions of both at: http://illinois.sierraclub.org/shawnee/unclebob/adventures.htm. coordinates are 37' 33.099 latitude and 91' 47.469 longitude. As of May,2009 there was an inland hurricane with substantial damage here-better call a dept of conservation office in Cape Girardeau first to see if it has been restored.

Amidon area is further described in the book: Conservation Trails-A Guide to Missouri Dept of Conservation Hiking Trails. Further info from Bob Tyson at 684-5643 or robkay43@webtv.net

Cedar Wonders North

Continuing with our monthly series, "Adventures With Uncle Bob-Guide to Self-Adventure in Southern Illinois," we re-visit Cedar Creek Wonders in Shawnee National Forest. A previous article featured the south end of this area and is indexed on this blog. Now, we visit the north end. From Tunnel Hill, Illinois continue south to the junction with US 45. Go straight ahead and set odometer for 2.4 miles. Turn left onto this narrow gravel road and go approx 2 miles to its end. There is enough parking for 3-4 cars but don't block the gate.

This trail starts out as a rocky wet gully between woods and a field, then encounters a powerline clearing. Walk down the clearing and look for the River to River Trail signs (R-R ). Soon we are at the base of a cliff line. While on the signed trail, bushwhack about 50 ft off-trail to go thru a canyon maze and also view a 10 ft deep cave. Up ahead is a huge cliff overhang. Return to the trail and we descend to parallel the creek. This creek will junction with another creek from the west. The R-R trail crosses one creek to continue straight ahead. YOU WANT TO TURN RIGHT(note a lime green dot on a tree and my orange ribbon). Follow along this creekbed approx 0.2 mile and look for an obvious path to ascend to the base of the cliff line. You are in for a treat! We will travel along a continuous cliff line for the rest of the jouney on this user-made trail. Along the way, I found a rock tunnel, rock shelters,and pretty rock formations. Soon we encounter a waterfall over a rock shelter. After viewing, cross the creekbed and continue the trail.

About a mile later, we cross another small creek and ascend a faint trail to a junction. Both segments are marked with a green dot. Go left. We are going to see a free-standing natural arch about 15 minutes away. Along the route, look above you for a small arch sandwiched between two cliff layers. Our destination is the natural arch. I measured it at 8 ft high, 6 ft wide, and 3-4 ft thick. I have not continued beyond this point and re-traced the route back to the car. Upon return, be sure to note the junction with the two green dots and make the descent to the right(miss this and you could get lost).

I estimate the distance from the car to the arch at 2.5 miles. The trail has continual short ascents and descents. The trail tread is rocky since it follows the base of thee cliff lines. Optimal views of the opposite sides of the canyons are best after leaf-off. on 3-2-11, upon reaching the natural arch, we found out that you can continue straight ahead on the trail and it will descend to th creek and hit the junction with the River to River Trail. Turn north(left) on it and have a shorter route back to the trailhead, rather than returning via the canyons you followed to the arch.
More info from Bob Tyson at 684-5643 or robkay43@webtv.net. You may also contact John O'Dell at 252-6789. There is no map of this area from the Forest Service.

Fountain Bluff Trails

Continuing with our monthly series, "Adventures With Uncle Bob-Guide to Self-Adventure in Southern Illinois," we feature an update on FOUNTAIN BLUFF in Shawnee National Forest. There has been two previous articles on our website ( http://illinois.sierraclub.org/shawnee/unclebob/adventures.htm) which highlighted several trails in this place: Tyson Canyon, Mississippi River Trail, petroglyphs, and Happy Hollow Road. Now an additional feature is accessible which I will name Waterfall Canyon.

From Murphysboro, take Rt 149 west to Rt 3. Turn left and travel to the village of Gorham. In town, turn onto Second Street which will become Fountain Bluff Township Road. As you drive along the base of this tall bluff line for a mile, look on the left for a small parking area with a 5 ft waterfall. As of May, 2008, someone has put up ladders to enter the canyon. I don't guarantee that vandals could walk off with them. Despite the effort to climb up to the canyon floor, you will be rewarded with 3 big rock shelters, a waterfall cascade, a user-made trail between canyon walls on both sides, and a spectacular view of the moss-covered walls converging to a width of 5 feet. Upon narrowing, note the natural stairsteps continue to ascend as far as you can see. I did not follow up very far as the cascade made the surface slippery.

02/20/2012: Great views on top of Fountain Bluff road and its obsedrvation points over the river. However, don't go up here in late summer/early fall. Ragweed infestation almost covers the road and obstructs ravine views on both sides of that road. Previous storms opened the canopy to cause the growth. Forest Service will not deal with it. From Rt 3, take Happy Hollow rd to the top of this mountain.

04/16/12: Since the rest of the info on this area fell off the former website, let me elaborate here. The first place is Tyson Canyon. Upon turning onto Gorham rd from rt 3, go a half mile and park across the road. walk in on the farm lane until you note the trail sign to go to the tall cliffs. Nice shelter cave. Next is a detour around the 2008 storm damage to the lane and then back onto the cliffs again. Another shelter cave and unique rock formation are next. Turn into the canyon for views of steep ravines, a cave, and finally, a creek side walk to the waterfall in the cul-de-sac. Return to the car. Drive out 2nd street, or go 2 miles thru town to Foutain Bluff road( road goes between 2 farms). Park at the waterfall. Enjoy walking the road to take in the great endless cliff views. When you see an isolated grove of trees on the north side of the road, look across the road for a user-made trail to the petroglyths. GPS 37 42' 40.5"N and 89 28' 52.1" W. Back in the car, return to rt 3, go south and look for Happy Hollow rd to ascend to the top of Fountain Bluff.

For further questions on this area, contact Bob Tyson at 684-5643

(Photos courtesy of the SIU Student Environmental Council)

Rice Hollow Trail

Continuing with our monthly series, "Adventures with Uncle Bob-Guide to Outdoor Recreation in Southern Illinois," we feature Rice Hollow Trail.

Directions: Travel south from Herod, Ill on Rt 34 to Karber Ridge Road. Turn left and follow to the town of Karber Ridge and note the turnoff sign for High Knob Recreation Area. Follow High Knob Road, continuing past the horse ranch, and look for the Rice Hollow sign at the bottom of the hill. Turn onto this lane and park where possible without impeding traffic from a farm further up the lane. The sign says trail #137 and also horse trail #109. Upon inquiry with the Forest Service as to why several trails have dual numbers or why trail numbers do not match what is printed on the maps, I have yet to receive a clear answer.

The first 0.2 mile is deeply rutted due to horse traffic during damp weather; however, the problem eventually becomes diminished. A long pretty cliff line appears and stays with the hiker for the next 1.5 mile. We encounter overhanging blufftops, slot canyons, and two caves behind cliff columns (see picture above right). There have been no further trail markers but the tread is obvious. As the trail descends, we now have cliff lines on both sides of the trail. The trail will cross a narrow creek several times but stepping stones are plentiful. Eventually, both cliff lines converge to a width of 30 ft and we cannot easily continue.

As I start re-tracing the route, an unmarked trail to the right is noted. Soon into this trail, a pretty cliff line appears. The shelter bluff is estimated at 80 ft in length. The next feature is an odd shaped boulder. Continuing further, there is a sign saying you are on horse trail #110 (see picture, above left). This would eventually end at Buzzard Roost on the River to River Trail (#001A). This becomes steep and hard to discern at some point. Rice Hollow is also supposed to be accessible from off #001A going west from High Knob trailhead but that spur trail is hard to follow. I continued to re-trace my route back to the car.I cannot find coordinates on this location, however the ones for the nearby horse camp is 37 36'0N and 88 20' 0"W

There appears to be no publications on Rice Hollow Trail. You may not want to do this one in early spring when creek levels are up. For further information contact Bob Tyson at 684-5643, or John O'Dell at 252-6789 (River to River Trail Society) 10/01/2011: that unmarked spur is the second left turn-don't turn on 137 or 137a. the shelter cave is known as robbers cave.

Cache River Trails

Continuing with our monthly series, "Adventures with Uncle Bob - Your Guide to Self-Adventure in Southern Illinois," we highlight the Cache River State Natural Area and National Wildlift Refuge. Directions: Take I-57 south to the Ullin exit. Travel approx 10 miles to Rt 37. Turn north on 37 and go 2 miles to the parking area for section 8 boardwalk access. This short walk thru swamp ends with a view of the state champion Water Tupelo tree. Continue north on this road to Barkhausen Wetlands Center (closed on Mondays and Tuesdays). The center has an impressive display of the natural and cultural history of this wetland. Note that the Tunnel Hill bike trail starts here. Backtrack a short distance and turn right onto Perks Road. At the first access area, turn in to note two eagle nests in treetops. Drive further on the road to the sign for the Lower Cache Access Area. Restroom and picnic facilities are here. One handicap accessible trail takes one to an observation platform over the swamp and a view of the state champion Bald Cypress. Back in the parking area, take the 2.5 mile swamp trail for a more intimate setting, bisecting Cypress and Tupelo swamps. Views are more limited in the first mile due to a forest of 8-20 ft tall Canebrake.

Drive back to the junction with Rt37 and Ullin road and turn left on to Rt 169. Near the town of Karnak, turn left onto Urban (formerly Porterhouse) Road. This delightful road goes 2 miles thru the middle of a swamp, crosses the bike trail, and comes to Big Cypress Tree Trail. Close to the parking area is the 1,000 year old Cypress tree with a base circumference of 40 ft.  correction: it is 1.3 miles to the access parking.

Take Rt 37 north to Rt 146, turn right and proceed to the sign for Wildcat Bluff. Follow this road about 6 miles (well marked) to the parking area. This is the Upper Cache River section. Two trails start here. The one mile observation trail on the left offers rim top views into the Cache River bottoms during leafoff. Note the pretty cliff walls and rock shelters below the trail. You will encounter one spot on the trail as an unmarked junction: go right on the spur trail to reach an overlook. Return to the trail and continue until it ends in a brush pile. Backtrack to the starting point at the signboard. Just to the left of the concrete wall is an easy place to descend to the cliff base. The signboard indicates that the other trail going west travels to Boss Island and Heron Pond. Expect to get your feet wet due to creek crossings. On that trail, I noted another place to descend to a nice shelter bluff line at the second DNR tree diamond.

Leaving this place, turn on to the road which takes you to Rt 45. Along the way, there is an unmarked fork: go right. At Rt 45 turn right and go to Belknap Road. Along the way to Belknap, there is a sign for Heron Pond swamp. (This was already described at http://illinois.sierraclub.org/shawnee. Click outings and then scroll to the bottom for self-adventures with uncle bob.) At Belknap, follow the sign to the Cache River Natural Area office and then follow the one-lane road to the parking area. Two trails start here at Marshall Access. The Tupelo trail says 2.4 mile loop. After a mile, the loop starts at a junction. Take the left fork and descend the cliff line to the swamp with picturesque Tupelo trees. Forget the right fork-poor signage. Back at the parking area, the other trail heads northeast. Except for a pretty cliff line near its beginning, the remainder is a walk in the woods.

05-25-13: some of you have gotten lost upon leaving Heron Pond to access other areas. The road goes to Belknap. A sign points to the state natural area to the right. If you want to continue west to big cypress and lower Cache access, go straight ahead on this unmarked paved road which runs to Karnak. At stop sign,turn right. now you are on rt 169. The big cypress sign will be approx 1 mile out of town. Thereafter,continue on rt 169 to Rt 37. 

Trail brochures are available at Shawnee National Forest offices and any Cache River visitor center. More information from Bob Tyson at 684-5643 The GPS coordinates for Wildcat Bluff are 88 55' 46.32"W and 37 22' 35.05"N. The coordinates for Heron Pond are 88 54' 35.80"W and 37 21' 12.93"N. The coordinates for Big Cypress access are 88 58' 59.61"W and 37 18' 33.69"N.

We are eliminating the old website so Heron Pond is described here on this page. The signboard at the parking lot for this preserve says "no dogs on trail". Walk downhill and cross the bridge and turn left. We are on an easy 0.5 mile trail which runs along the side of the creek/swamp and brings us to the boardwalk. This will take you deep into the swamp and the water is often a vibrant lime-green color as far as you can see. Cypress and Tupelo trees abound as well as the Heron rookeries high up in the trees, as well as the bald knobs that protrude from the water surface. After that, walk another 0.25 mile ascending up to the state champion Cherry Oak Bark tree with a huge diameter. Upon return, there is a trail junction;However, both bring you back to the bridge. Restroom facilities are here. 05/08/2012: the section 8 boardwalk is back open and repaired.

Lusk Creek Wilderness

Continuing with our monthly series, "Adventures with Uncle Bob-Guide to Self-Adventure in Southern Illinois," this article takes us to the north section of Lusk Creek. A previous article on this area covered the southern section, also known as Indian Kitchen (see http://illinois.sierraclub.org/shawnee/unclebob/adventures.htm).

Directions: take Rt 145 south from Harrisburg. A few miles north of Eddyville look for the turn for Circle B ranch. When this tar road curves right (south), you need to go straight ahead on a narrow, unsigned, gravel road. Travel approx 3-4 miles and look for a trailhead parking lot. Walk across the road and start the hike for trail #481. The sign says 1 1/4 mile to Saltpeter Cave and 1.5 mile to Natural Bridge. Prior to August, 2007, this trail was a 6 inch wide horse-damaged mud hole with numerous, user-made junctions. Now we have excellent tread and user-made trail junctions have been roped off (plus explanation signs).

The trail gradually descends and passes steep ravines. At one point we encounter an unmarked "T" intersection. Mark this spot so you don't miss it on the way back. Go right-the trail is rocky for the first 1,000 feet. Later we travel along bluff lines on both sides. Another unmarked fork appears. Don't take the one going uphill. We arrive at a junction with Lusk Creek. You have a choice of turning right for Saltpeter Cave or cross the creek on stones to visit Natural Bridge. I made a loop of both, bringing me back to this spot. Across the creek, a pretty cliff line awaits us as well as the bridge. It appears to be 50 ft long, 4 ft high, and 30 ft thick. Trail 481 ascends to become a rim trail. Note a junction for Secret Canyon: I walked a mile or more on the latter thru woods. There was a fork where one path took me to trail #001 (river to river trail) and the other went to a ravine bottom with no further signs. Trail 481 comes to a junction with trail #457. Turn right and travel a short distance to Saltpeter Cave. For a closeup views, one needs to cross the creekbed. Walk both ways along that cliff line to view 3 major shelter bluffs (cave is the wrong term). Cross back and continue #481 a short distance to another creek crossing. Upon crossing, note another unmarked junction-go right on #486. We soon close our loop next to the Natural Bridge creek crossing. Turn left and follow #481 back to the car.

If you are ambitous for a long prettier hike and don't mind getting wet, here are the directions to the same forementioned features: Park at the Circle B ranch trailhead. Walk south 100 ft and take trail #001. After 40 minutes you arrive at Lusk Creek. Turn left onto trail #457 and follow this muddy, narrow trail to Old Guest Farm Creek Crossing. Trail #457 will continue north on the other side of Lusk Creek and junctions with #481 about an hour later.

Back at our parking lot for trail #481, I note that this county road travels further east to provide access to #457D and #483, but a high clearance vehicle or jeep would be advisable. Ask for the green Shawnee 2007 Interim Trails map at ranger stations for further assistance. More information from Bob Tyson at 684-5643. Due to creek crossings, I would avoid this hike during early spring.

GPS coordinates at natural bridge 37 32' 8.13"N and 88 32' 48.25"W
3/20/2012: The trail on the south end has disappeared from the website so i am re-writing here. From Eddyville, turn onto Golcanda road and go 1/2 mile to the first right turn. Drive 2 miles to the parking lot on the left. This will be a 2 mile walk thru woods until reaching a rock glade. Before you descend to Lusk Creek, go right and discover a short ledge trail that brings you to a cave in the cliff for a birdseye view over the gorge; Otherwise, go down to the creek to look at this amphitheater shaped steep canyon wall and stream forming a hairpin turn. Unusual plants found here. Return the way you came.

High Knob Trail

Continuing with our monthly series, "Adventures with Uncle Bob-Guide to Self-Adventure in Southern Illinois," we highlight High Knob Trail. From Harrisburg, follow Rt 145 to Rt 34. 3 miles south of Herod, look for Karber Ridge Road. At the settlement of Karber Ridge, look for a small sign to High Knob. After a few miles, turn right at the horse ranch (note that the River to River Trail crosses the road to head toward Garden of the Gods). This rocky road climbs steadily to the viewpoint parking lot. Picnic tables and restrooms are noted.

Walk back down the road and find the blue markers for the loop trail. The first one is on the left(east). I walked a little further to the next marker and commenced the trail. I estimate the loop at 1.5-2.0 miles. This spectacular trail runs continually in a circular fashion along the base of cliffs. Prominent features include shelter bluffs, many slot canyons, small caves, rock formations, and unique patterns in the rock. The terrain is rocky but relatively level; Some places have descending stone steps, as well as a small wood staircase. The midway point even has a rough-hewn picnic table. Trash cans are along the route. Near the end, there is a steep ascent for 100 ft thru a narrow stone staircase between boulders.Before ascending,I hope you noted a cave which enables you to walk in 30-40 ft. Bring a flashlight.

In the parking area, note the blue markers going north from the restroom. This path accomodates those who only want to do part of the loop. As you drive back downhill, note two other trails which head east (one is the River to River Trail to Camp Cadiz). Both are a sea of mud due to horse traffic. The River to River Trail is running parallel to the road as we drive by the horse ranch. High Knob is briefly mentioned in the book, Fifty Nature Walks in Southern Illinois. More info from Bob Tyson at 684-5643. GPS coordinates are 37 36' 0.01"N and 88 19' 41.70"W october,2011: while talking to the owners of High Knob campground at the bottom,we are advised that new cabins are available for hikers and riders. Call 618-275-4494. this horse ranch sits on the River To River trail as well as High Knob trail, Rice Hollow trail and many others. The road up to High Knob sometimes is closed without notice. You can call that number to see if open or closed before making a long trip; Don't count on Forest Service staff to know.